How To Frame Your Art: A Guide to Showcasing Original British Art

Picking a frame for a new piece of art can feel like a minefield. What type of frame should I get? What material is best? Does the mount size even matter?

If you’ve recently invested in a piece of independent British art, the frame is the final touch that bridges the gap between the artist's studio and your home. Whether you’re looking for a sleek modern look or a classic gallery feel, I’ll answer all your framing questions in the next few minutes.

Aren’t all frames the same?

No. Frames serve two distinct purposes: protection and presentation. The wrong frame can actually damage original art over time, while the right one can make a small sketch feel like a museum masterpiece.

A Guide to Different Frame Types

  • Floater Frames (Tray Frames): Ideal for canvas. The painting sits inside a "tray" with a small gap between the canvas edge and the frame, making the painting look like it’s "floating." 
  • Box & Shadow Box Frames: Deep frames where the glass is set well away from the artwork. Perfect for 3D art or textured paper with beautiful "deckled" edges.
  • Gilded Frames: Traditional wood frames finished with gold or silver leaf. They add a sense of history and luxury to classic oil portraits or landscapes.
  • Photo Frames: Usually slim and lightweight. Best kept for mass-produced prints; original works usually deserve something more robust.

Choosing the Right Frame for Your Art

The medium of your artwork dictates the type of frame you need.

Which frame is best for canvas (Oils and Acrylics)?

For original oil paintings on canvas or acrylics on board, a floater frame is the gold standard. Since these works are often painted on thick wooden stretchers, they don't need glass. A floater frame protects the vulnerable corners without hiding the texture of the paint.

What type of frame is recommended for paper?

Art on paper (watercolours, charcoal, or sketches) is delicate and needs the protection of a frame with glazing (glass or acrylic). Always use a mount (mat) to ensure the paper isn't pressed directly against the glass.

The Golden Rule: Never put glass directly against an oil or acrylic painting. These mediums need to "breathe." Trapped moisture can cause the canvas to rot or the paint to stick to the glazing.

Materials, Colours, and Mounts: The Essentials

What material should a frame be made of?

For original art, always choose solid wood (like Oak, Ash, or Walnut) or metal (Aluminium). In 2026, look for FSC-certified woods to ensure your beautiful frame is also eco-friendly. Avoid cheap MDF or "plastic-wrap" frames, as they can release gases that may yellow your art over time.

What colour frame should I get?

It really depends on your piece! In 2026, the trend is moving toward natural wood tones and muted metallics like brushed gold or champagne.

  • Black: Adds drama and definition; great for abstract art.
  • White: Keeps it airy and modern; perfect for bright, coastal pieces.
  • Oak/Walnut: Adds organic warmth; the safest bet for most British landscapes.
  • Coloured Frames: Don't be afraid to go bold! A deep navy, forest green, or even a soft terracotta frame can pick out a subtle undertone in a landscape and make the entire piece pop.

Pro-Tip: How I "Test" Frames Before Buying

What I’ve started to do is ask AI (Gemini or ChatGPT) to mock up what my piece might look like with different coloured frames. For example, here are a few options for different frame colours for my piece, There’s Hope on the Horizon.

I also used Best4Frames to mock up what frame might suit my picture, The Lake. I just went to "Custom Picture Frames" and used the option to "upload, print and frame your image." Instead of getting them to print it, I simply took a photo of my art, cropped it, and uploaded it to test different frames. 

What size mount will look good?

A common mistake is choosing a mount that is too narrow. For a "gallery" look, go for a wide mount (at least 5cm–7cm). A generous border draws the eye inward and gives the artwork "breathing room," making even a small A5 sketch look significant. The image below shows the same picture, in the same frame, but varying mount borders for you to compare.

Quick Framing FAQ for Collectors

  • Should I use glass or acrylic? Glass is traditional and scratch-resistant, but UV-protective acrylic (Perspex) is lighter and better if you are hanging art in a sunny room to prevent fading.
  • What is 'Conservation' framing? This means the framer uses acid-free materials and "reversible" mounting techniques that won't devalue the art over time.
  • What is acid free paper? Cheap mounts contain lignin which turns into acid over time, causing "acid burn"—those nasty yellow stains you sometimes see on the edges of old framed pictures. So always check that your mount is acid-free. 
  • What is an undermount/backing mount? A backing mount is a sturdy, acid-free board that sits directly behind your artwork. between the art and the back of the frame (often MDF or greyboard). It protects your art from harmful acids or moisture from the very back of the frame seeping into your original painting.
  • Is framing expensive? It doesn't have to be! If you're framing original art, its worth getting something high quality, but if you're just buying prints then there is nothing wrong with an IKEA frame. Don't have a backing mount? Just put a piece of acid free paper behind it. There are also some great ones on Etsy.

Summary: Your Art, Your Rules

While these tips will help protect your investment, remember: this is just advice. Art is an expression of personality. If you love the look of a vintage ornate frame on a modern abstract piece—go for it! Have fun and experiment. As with art, there are no rules.

 

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